‘Every Cook Ought to Learn At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Secures Fourth on Ranking of London’s Top Food Spots.

Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated high among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the owners completely shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest shop earning such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.